Survival in deserts
by James Mandeville
(
Go to: Travelling in desert by vehicle)


Sahara Desert (Subtropical).

Gobi Desert in winter (Cold Winter).

Namib Desert (Cool Coastal).

Atacama Desert (Rain shadow desert).
Understanding the survival zone
With the exception of the frozen deserts in the
Arctic and Antarctica, most of the world's deserts lie in two belts
within 25 degrees of the equator. These belts are considered to be
deserts because the high atmospheric pressure causes dry, cold air
from the upper altitudes to compress and come down to earth. This
dry air is so clear that it can be easily heated by the sun, causing
high ground temperatures with very low humidity. The Sahara (the world's
largest and hottest desert, with temperatures reaching 57.6°C (136°F)
and the Atacama (the world's driest desert) on the coast of Chile
and the Kalahari in Africa were formed in this way. The Gobi Desert
is a cold winter desert and daytime temperatures can drop to -30°C
(22°F). In all deserts, including subtropical desert, which is very
hot in the daytime, the temperature can get very cold at night.
Desert found between two mountain ranges, one on the east and one
on the west of a land expanse, which block moist ocean air from reaching
the land, is known as a 'rain shadow' desert. Almost all the precipitation
falls on the opposite side of each mountain range leaving the region
between the mountains dry. Very few deserts are formed solely by a
rain shadow effect because they are also influenced by the high atmospheric
pressure. The Atacama Desert is a true rain shadow desert and is one
of the driest places on Earth. It is virtually sterile (not even bacteria
can live there) because it is blocked from moisture on both sides
by the Andes mountains and by the Chilean Coast Range.
Where the climate is so cold that the air can only hold a small amount
of moisture and there is very little precipitation, all the surface
water is locked in unusable blocks of ice. These conditions have created
the Antarctic and Arctic deserts.
Most deserts have a 'rainy season,' but this can be as short as a
few days of rain in several years, or it can mean several days of
rain in one year. All deserts have one thing in common, in the rainy
season, the desert blooms. Desert plants, seeds, tubers and bulbs
are adapted to lying dormant for extended periods waiting for rain.
When the rain comes, they rapidly grow. The effects of climate change
on deserts is not currently obvious, satellite images from the last
15 years do seem to show a recovery of vegetation in the Southern
Sahara and in other deserts there seems to be more than average rainfall,
but the phenomena is too new for one to state that the world's deserts
are retreating because of climate change.
Dangers:

Very few desert animals can kill a human being, however, there are
venomous snakes, scorpions and spiders, which in a serious survival
situation could be a fatal encounter if there is no chance of medical
assistance.
A bit about snakes:
There are many species of venomous snakes in the world's deserts,
although there are no venomous lizards outside of North and Central
America. Snakes found in or near salty water that have a laterally
flattened tail are sea snakes; all are venomous, many highly venomous.
Venoms are neurotoxins. Land snakes, whose heads are triangular and
wider than the neck, with eyes that have vertical (cat like) pupils
are vipers; all are dangerously venomous regardless of size. Photo,
above, is Saw-scaled viper (Echis carinatus). (Though it rarely grows
to even 24 inches in length, this is a highly venomous species responsible
for numerous human deaths each year. Because of its fatality rate,
this species is listed as one of the most dangerous snakes in the
world. The venom is composed of almost equally neurotoxic and haemotoxic
components. Bite victims typically manifest widespread haemorrhaging
and respiratory failure. The vipers are active by day and travel over
sand in a sidewinder fashion. When cornered, they inflate the body
and rub sections against each other, producing a loud and ominous
hissing sound. They strike quickly and repeatedly.)
Sand boas resemble vipers, but their heads are not triangular or wider
than the neck. Primary venom component is haemotoxic (enzymes digest
circulatory vessels). Snakes with heads only slightly broader than
the neck, with large scales on top of the head and smooth scales,
are cobras. Not all cobras will extend the hood if annoyed. Cobras
are largely black or brown, shiny snakes. The venom is highly dangerous
and neurotoxic. All snakes give warning before attacking; respect
the signs. Most snakes will flee from you and only attack if you surprise
them or corner them. A snake can strike from a distance of half its
body length. In a survival situation, with no medical assistance,
all snakebites are potentially life threatening.
A bit about scorpions:
There are over a thousand known species of scorpions and most of these
inflict a painful sting. Only a few have venom deadly to humans, so
you would be very unlucky to be envenomated by one that could kill
you. The fattail scorpions and the Palestine Yellow Scorpion are among
the few really deadly species. (The Fattail scorpion or fat-tailed
scorpion is the common name given to scorpions of the genus Androctonus,
which is one of the most dangerous groups of scorpions species in
the world. They are found throughout the semi-arid and arid regions
of the Middle-East and Africa. They are a moderate sized scorpion,
attaining lengths of 10 cm (just under 4 in). Their name is derived
from their distinctly fat metasoma, or tail. Their venom contains
powerful neurotoxins and is especially potent. Stings from Androctonus
species are known to cause several human deaths each year. An anti-venom
is available.)

Photo left: Palestine Yellow Scorpion,
Leiurus quinquestriatus is extremely rare but one of the world's deadliest.
Photo right: Arabian fat-tailed scorpion, Androctonus crassicauda.
Without antivenin the victim will probably die.
(You are more likely to be stung by a scorpion than bitten by a snake
or spider. Sensible precautions include always shaking out footwear
before putting it on and not picking up equipment like a backpack
without first turning it over and inspecting it. If you have to sleep
on the ground, spread hot ashes from a fire over the area to deter
scorpions and other creatures. Never handle a scorpion. To kill one
for food, first pin down its tail with a stick, cut off the stinger
and claws. The scorpion can be eaten as is - it tastes like an explosion
of puss in the mouth but it is all protein.')
A bit about spiders:
Desert spiders will not normally bite you unless you come into contact
with them accidentally. Most spider bites are not fatal but can make
you feel ill. If in a depleted state, the victim may be very weakened
by the toxin. For example, the female Black Widow
Spider, although it is the most venomous spider in North America (and
can be found in many American deserts), seldom causes death as it
injects a very small amount of venom when it bites. Reports indicate
human mortality is less than 1% from Black Widow Spider bites and
no one has died from a bite in the USA in the last 10 years. The "Camel
Spider" is a common name for solpugids, large (non spider) arachnids
found in desert regions. They do not bite humans and even if they
did, their bite would not be dangerous. The Australian, Red
Back Spider (photo, right) generally doesn’t leave or wander away
from its web. Most bites occur when the victim inadvertently places
a hand onto the web. The fangs of the female have the potential to
penetrate human skin causing toxic neurological reactions. Due to
the small fang length, most bites aren’t sufficiently deep to cause
problems and since the introduction of antivenin there have been no
recorded fatalities. The males are even smaller and generally are
much less dangerous; they are regarded as non-venomous.
Quicksand:
Quicksand is not a special type of sand, just sand that has been liquefied
by a saturation of water. The "quick," refers to how easily the sand
shifts when in this semi-liquid state. Quicksand is caused by flowing
underground water saturating an area of loose sand when the water
trapped in a section of sand can't escape. (Theoretically, quicksand
can also be caused by air being trapped in the sand, forming a fragile
pit of sand and air, but this has never been recorded outside of laboratory
experiments.) Quicksand is more
inconvenient than dangerous
and it is easier to escape from it than you might think. The human
body has a density of 1 g/cm3 (62.4 pounds per cubic foot) and is
able to float on water. Quicksand has a density of about 2 g/cm3 (125
pounds per cubic foot), which means you can float more easily on quicksand
than on water, although the sand to water ratio of quicksand can vary,
causing some quicksand to be less buoyant.
The key is to not panic. Most people who drown in quicksand (or in
water) are usually those who panic and begin flailing their arms and
legs around, causing them to sink. Your survival depends entirely
on the depth of the quicksand and if there is anyone around to help
you. If you were in above your knees, it would be very difficult to
move, a bit like being planted in wet cement. If you were in up to
your waist, it would be extremely difficult to extract yourself from
the dense slurry. If you try wading in quicksand, you have the added
problem of working against the vacuum caused by your movement. The
best chance of survival takes some courage because to escape you have
to lie back and let your legs float back up to the surface. Once you
are floating, you can slowly paddle yourself to firm ground using
just hand movements, keeping your legs together. Scary, but not life
threatening.
It is impossible to remove a vehicle from quicksand if the driving
wheels are bogged down without the help of a powerful winch and a
ground anchor.
Sand (dust) storms:

If you are in the desert for any length of time, you will almost certainly
encounter a sandstorm. The ferocity of a sandstorm depends on the
force of the wind and a sandstorm can range from mildly annoying to
a serious threat. A turbulent, suffocating cloud of particulates reduces
visibility to almost zero in a matter of seconds. A violent sandstorm
can carry with it larger particles, even small stones and these can
cause serious injury.
Nearly all dust storms are capable of causing property damage, injuries
and deaths. They are most commonly associated with the Sahara and
Gobi desert regions but they can occur in any arid or semi-arid climate.
Storms vary in both size and duration. Most are quite small and last
only a few minutes, while the largest can extend hundreds of miles,
tower more than a mile into the sky and last for many days. Sandstorm
conditions are also ideal for thunderstorms and lightning often accompanies
a sandstorm. A sandstorm can give a total blackout, so you must not
move and if you are with a group, it is best to hold hands or lock
arms. If a person has to leave the group, for example during a military
operation, the person leaving should be secured by a rope to a member
of the group so he/she can find their way back. If you have a camel,
sit to the leeward side of it (camels can survive sandstorms). If
you have a vehicle, close all doors, windows and shut off outside
vents; do not turn on the windscreen wipers as the sand will damage
the windscreen and you will probably burn out the windscreen motor.
If you are caught on foot in the open, try to take cover behind a
rock or other landform to get as much protection as possible. If you
are on a sand-dune, do not shelter on the leeward side, although this
might seem the obvious thing to do, the force of the wind will move
huge amounts of sand quickly and you could easily be buried. There
will be a huge amount of surface sand shifting in the storm and the
driven sand will also bounce off the surface, so being close to the
surface is the worse place to be. Never lay face down, as you risk
being injured or buried. If you have time to head for high ground,
it is best not to shelter on the highest point (even though the wind
blown sand has less density on high ground), as you risk injury from
larger flying objects and if there is lightning, from being struck.
Do not lie in a dried river bed or ditch because there may be flash
flooding, even if there is no accompanying rain, it may be raining
elsewhere.

Once engulfed by a sandstorm, the temperature will rise and there
will be significantly less available oxygen, so it is a choking, suffocating
and blinding experience. To survive it, you should always cover your
head and as much exposed skin as possible.
Swallowing sand particles is unpleasant but not a serious health threat.
Getting dust and sand particles in the lungs is a health risk. The
force of a sandstorm can be equivalent to sandblasting paint off a
car. As soon as a sandstorm begins, sit with your back to it, cover
up and protect your head with whatever you have available, such as
a backpack. If you have petroleum jelly, apply it to the insides of
your nostrils, lips and ears to help prevent the mucous membranes
from drying out. Moisten the covering around your nose and mouth to
trap smaller dust particles that could otherwise choke you if you
can spare the water. If you have airtight goggles, wear them and keep
them on long after the storm has abated as small particles may still
be flying around.
At night, in winter and in cold deserts, it is still possible to experience
a sandstorm. The freezing winds of a winter dust storm can quickly
lead to hypothermia, so it is important to put on as much warm clothing
as you can. If you are with a group, huddle together to conserve body
heat.
Flash flooding:

It is rather a surprising statistic that more people are killed by
flash flooding in the desert than heat exhaustion or dehydration;
the photo above shows a flash flood starting in the Gobi Desert. Flash
flooding is a surge of water through a valley, canyon, wash or dry
river bed. (Washes are also known as arroyos in the USA.) They generally
originate up in the nearby mountain ranges and act as a funnel, draining
storm water off the mountainsides. Because washes contain water at
some time during the year, you will find plants that need more water
growing along the edges of them. You can often pick out a wash from
the surrounding landscape because it looks like a green ribbon standing
out from the dusty tones of the surrounding desert. You should look
out for this landmark if you are searching for water.
Desert areas are very susceptible to flooding because the hard, dry
desert soil doesn’t allow rains to soak in before the water moves
across the dry ground. The reason people are caught out by these floods
in the desert is because there may be no rainfall apparently in the
area. The flood may be caused by torrential rain miles away, often
originating in a mountainous area. The lack of regular rain to clear
water channels may cause flash floods in deserts to be headed by large
amounts of debris, such as rocks, branches and logs.
Human survival:
An average, fit, healthy person exposed fully to the desert sun will
not last the day without water. However, survival in the desert is
possible and many people unused to this harsh environment have survived
to tell the tale. The desert may look formidable, but many people
live in and around desert areas, as do faunae and florae. You can
survive in the desert too; you just have to know how to do it. These
days, most people end up in a survival situation in the desert because
they wandered into it (on foot or in a vehicle) without understanding
how quickly things can change or go wrong; not realising just how
quickly one can get hopelessly lost. This applies to both the military
and to civilians. These are the basic rules of survival in the desert:
-
You need to conserve water.
Breath through your nose to conserve moisture, do not smoke or consume
alcohol as this will dehydrate you more rapidly. If you have food,
but no water, only eat tiny quantities or you will dehydrate faster.
Finding water is priority one.
-
Do not drink your urine,
as this will make you thirstier and rapidly cause liver failure.
(For the sake of accuracy I have added this comment: There is a
method for drinking urine in a critical situation when there is
absolutely no other liquid available. Do not collect the first two
decilitres of the urine you pass as this contains the highest concentration
of impurities, collect the rest. Drink it straight away and do not
store any. Bear in mind, unless you can re-hydrate with water before
collecting further urine, each time you collect and drink it the
impurity level will build up dramatically and rapidly lead to the
failure of your liver and kidneys. Note, you will die from this
anyway, so if you have absolutely no chance of rescue and zero chance
of finding water, drinking your urine will not prolong your life
for more than a few hours and your death will be more painful and
unpleasant than lying down and dying of dehydration. It is a call
only you can make! The best use of urine is to wet your headdress
with it to benefit from the cooling effect of evaporation. Another
argument for not drinking you urine is that very likely you will
vomit weakening you further.)
-
You need to keep out of
the daytime sun and only move at night. If you have a vehicle, use
it for shade. Remember, all metal parts will heat up in the sun
and burn flesh if you touch them.
-
Stay where you are if
you have a good chance of being rescued. Wandering only a short
distance from your crashed plane, stranded vehicle or from the party
you were with, can be a disaster. A person can rapidly get lost
and rescuers may not be able to find him/her in time. If you do
decide to move, mark your direction, so potential rescuers know
where you are headed. Even though you may be leaving a clear track
with your footsteps, a small breeze can obliterate these in seconds,
so do not be fooled into thinking potential rescuers will necessarily
be able to follow your tracks. Disorientation can set in rapidly
and if you do not have a compass, you will definitely end up wandering
around in circles.
-
All deserts are hotter
in the daytime and you should not exert yourself while the sun is
up. As the air heats up, it will slowly cook you, so all you can
do is try to find some shade behind rocks, in caves or near water.
Rest throughout the day and walk at night. Try to reduce sweating,
as this is water loss. Wear white or light coloured clothing to
reflect as much of the sun's rays off your body as possible. Covering
the head and back of the neck is critical to keep the brain cool.
If you can wet your head covering to increase the cooling effect,
this helps. If you cannot spare water for this, use urine. The ground
in the desert is hot in the daytime and raising yourself even a
few centimetres off the ground will have a significant cooling effect.
If you cannot find any shade or raise yourself off the surface,
dig away the surface sand, as the sand below the surface is cooler
and even a few degrees reduction in surface temperature can help
survival.
-
Do not climb or drive
up sand-dunes if you can avoid it. Dunes are often fragile and unstable
and you may end up being buried in an avalanche of sand. Climbing
dunes uses significant amounts of energy and you will perspire and
lose precious water. The area near the base of sand-dunes
can turn into quicksand if it has rained.
-
Be extra cautious if you
are in the area of a wash, down in a canyon or near a dry river
bed because all these areas are liable to flash flood. These floods
can strike with very little warning and the water can have terrific
force.
Dehydration:
The Bedouin of Egypt, who regularly cross 2400 kilometres (1500 miles)
of almost sterile and uninhabited desert in all seasons, reckon on
5 litres (1.3 US gallons) of water per person per day, including water
for drinking and cooking, but not washing. This allows a reasonable
margin for emergencies and unexpected rises in temperature. In the
hot season the daily requirement goes up to 10 - 15 litres (2.6 -
4 US gallons) of water per person per day. If you are in the shade
during daytime, or in a vehicle most of the time, a person can manage
on 3.8 litres (1 US gallon) of water per person per day. You should
drink even if you don't feel thirsty because thirst is a late warning
of dehydration. If you have food and little or no water, do not eat,
as this will dehydrate you faster. Smoking also speeds up dehydration
and drinking alcohol is a "no-go," as this will dehydrate you faster
still. If you have a limited supply of water, drink as much as possible
because this is the one situation where rationing water will not save
you. Drink while you can and when you can.
(My next article will cover finding natural sources of water in the
dry season.
Illness:
Chronic bacterial infections are a risk, mainly from certain uncommon
mycoplasmas, such as Mycoplasma fermentans (known as Chronic Fatigue
Syndrome or Fibromyalgia Syndrome); this is treatable with antibiotics.
Micro-organism infections are possible, such as those caused by the
Brucella species, Y. pestis, or other bacteria. Most desert illnesses
are caused by excessive exposure to sun and heat. Heat exhaustion
is the result of dehydration due to intense sweating. It is possible
to lose one or two litres of water per hour in extreme heat. Symptoms
are a pale face, nausea, cool and moist skin, headache and cramps.
To treat this condition, drink water, eat high-energy foods, rest
in the shade and cool the body anyway you can.
Early symptoms of heatstroke include unusual or illogical behaviour,
elevated temperature, flushed appearance and a weak, rapid pulse.
The condition can rapidly progress to unconsciousness, seizures and
death. A heatstroke victim must be cooled immediately. Continuously
pour water on the victim's head and torso, fan to create an evaporative
cooling effect, move the victim to shade and remove excessive clothing.
If you cannot do this, the heatstroke will soon become severe. Severe
heatstroke victims needs evacuation to a hospital, so it best to avoid
heatstroke by always covering your head and neck, preferably with
dampened material and by keeping out of the direct sun. Hypothermia
can also develop, particularly if the person is fatigued. While hypothermia
is most often a concern during the winter season in cold deserts,
it can occur at almost any time of year at higher elevations especially
if travelling at night. Night-time temperatures can drop below 10°C
(50°F) even in summer. The risk of hypothermia is greater in windy
and or wet conditions. Symptoms include uncontrollable shivering,
poor muscle control and careless or illogical behaviour. To prevent
hypothermia, wear wind and water resistant outer clothing and synthetics
capable of wicking moisture away from your skin. It is important to
eat high-energy foods and drink warm fluids to increase your body's
resistance to the effects of cool temperatures.
Constipation and pain in passing urine are common and salt-deficiency
can lead to cramps. Continued heavy sweating of the body, coupled
with rubbing by clothing, can produce blockages in the sweat glands
and an uncomfortable skin irritation known as "prickly heat". Heat
cramps, leading to heat exhaustion, heatstroke and serious sunburn
are all dangers. A gradual increase in activity and daily exposure
to the sun will build up a defence – provided that plenty of drinking
water is available. Various micro-organisms attack the moist areas
of the body, such as, the armpits, groin and between the toes. Prevention
being the best cure - keep these body areas clean and dry.
Even the most trivial wound is likely to become infected if not dealt
with straight away. Thorns are easily picked up and should be pulled
out as soon as possible. Where the skin of the feet is broken (for
example, from a burst blister), a large and painful sore may develop
making walking difficult. Disinfect and cover all cuts with clean
dressings and tend all wounds, even minor ones, daily.
Water intoxication (hyponatremia) is an illness that mimics the early
symptoms of heat exhaustion, except that urination is more frequent
with a higher volume than normal or clear urine. If left untreated,
advanced symptoms include behavioural changes, diarrhoea and unconsciousness;
these symptoms often require hospitalization. Water intoxication can
occur when a person drinks excessive amounts of water and eats very
little or not at all, creating an electrolyte imbalance. To prevent
and treat early stages of water intoxication, balance your increased
water intake with food. When planning a desert expedition, consider
packing one of the many electrolyte drink mixes to supplement your
water supply.
Sunburn is a serious risk, particularly to the cheeks, nose and lips.
Use a high factor sun block and never walk in the sun with unprotected
skin. The eyes are also susceptible to sunburn; always wear sunglasses.
Always have the head and neck covered.
Tip: If you do not have sunglasses, improvise: (Make eye covering
out of cardboard, paper or material (make only the smallest hole you
can see through). To use Duct tape (fold a strip over, sticky side
together and make narrow slots for your eyes, fix with string or more
tape). Another possibility is to cut a thin strip of plastic foam
from a seat in your abandoned vehicle and fix over the eyes (you will
be able to see enough through it).
Direct attack:
Some risk exists from primitive tribesmen (depending on which part
of the world you are in), who may place a different value on human
life and see only the value of your possessions. People easily vanish
without trace in the desert, so even if rescue seems at hand, always
approach tribesmen with extreme caution, especially if you are unarmed.
Indirect attack:
Venomous snakes, scorpions and spiders pose the greatest risk. See
above.
Equipment:
All electrical and mechanical equipment is susceptible to the desert
dust and all equipment must be covered when not in use and cleaned
regularly.
Weapons:
The same applies as with electrical equipment, all moving parts of
any firearm need frequent cleaning, oiling and the weapon needs testing.
Keep a condom over the end of a firearm's barrel. Optical sights,
if fitted can soon deteriorate unless designed especially for desert
use. Extreme temperatures can make metal parts of any weapon very
hot to handle; keep all ammo in the coolest place possible.
Visibility:
Visibility can vary dramatically depending on radiated heat, the amount
of dust in the air and just from the glare of the sun. Because of
heat haze, judging distances can be a problem.
Mirages and oases:

This is a mirage: The "water" and objects
on the horizon do not actually exist.
The scientific explanation about how mirages are formed and the different
types of mirages is fairly complex and outside the scope of this book.
Simply put, desert mirages result from the heating of air overlying
the hot sand. In a desert mirage, objects appear to be lower than
they actually are. Also, the image is inverted and can appear to shimmer
because of changes in refractive index (like a star twinkling). The
shining patch on the surface in the above photo is actually a reflection
of the sky. The shimmering light looks like water because it is water
we most want to see. It is not an hallucination, we are seeing an
image of the sky but we want to interpret it as water. Mirages with
palm trees and water are not uncommon, but this can be an image of
an oasis that is many miles away. How can you tell it is a mirage?
It changes if you view it from a lower angle. It shimmers. If you
can see trees or buildings, they appear to be inverted.
Oases:

An oasis is formed by a pool of water trapped between layers of rock
beneath the desert floor. The amount of water in a main oasis may
be sufficient to permit people to settle near there and even grow
crops. Most oases are often small, highly contaminated pools of water
with some sparse surrounding vegetation. Often the water is so saline
it is undrinkable and even from an oasis that is large and surrounded
by lush vegetation, you should never drink the water without first
filtering and purifying it because locals will water their animals
there and these animals often pollute the water with their urine and
faeces.
Uninhabited oases with date palms are rare. You must appreciate the
trees have been planted and the fruit belongs to someone, so only
take what you need and do nothing to damage the trees. If the oasis
is inhabited or you happen upon nomadic tribesmen you must always
ask permission to use the water or take fruit from the trees. Resources
are fiercely protected. In all deserts, the main oases are mapped;
if you don't have a map of the area, you are unlikely to find an oasis.
In the worst-case scenario, find high ground and look for areas of
greenery; washes look like thin green lines from a distance and you
should be able to spot one of the larger oases if there is one in
the area.
You may have to travel miles over burning sand only to find the green
area has vegetation but no open source of water; in this case, all
you can try is to dig down near the vegetation in an area where the
topography is at its lowest point. Water can be very deep down. To
determine if water is present, dig down one metre and place some dry
material in the bottom of the hole. Several hours later, if the material
is damp or better still wet, it is worth digging deeper because you
have found water. Make several holes to determine the best place to
expend your energy digging. If you find a pool that is contaminated
and or saline, dig a hole one or two metres away and wait for it to
fill with water, this water has effectively been through a sand filter
as it flows from the oasis and the water in your hole will be much
cleaner but possibly still saline.
faunae:
In a true survival situation, you should trap or look for lizards,
tortoises, rodents, snakes, small mammals, such as the desert fox
and remember that all insects are edible, so are scorpions. Rodents
and lizards can be found by turning over small stones (Always use
a stick, never your hands) and look in any area that is in shade.
|
Type of Desert |
Name of Deserts |
Location |
Animals |
|
Hot Desert |
Great Sandy Desert, Great Victoria, Simpson,
Gibson, Tanami |
Australia |
Bilby, dingo, kangaroo, marsupial mole, quokka,
rabbit-eared bandicoot. |
|
Hot Desert |
Arabian Desert |
Arabian Peninsula |
Dromedary, dung beetle, camel, civet, Egyptian
vulture, flamingo, fox, gazelle, hare, hedgehog, Arabian horse,
hyena, ibex, jackal, jerboa, lesser bustard, lizard, locust,
oryx, peregrine falcon, porcupine, sand cobra, scorpion, skink,
veiled chameleon, viper. |
|
Hot Desert |
Chihuahuan |
Mexico/S.W. USA |
Big free-tailed bat, coyote, diamondback rattlesnake,
kangaroo rat, roadrunner, vampire bat. |
|
Hot Desert |
Kalahari |
S.W. Africa |
Gazelle, gerbil, ground squirrel, hyena, jackal,
meerkat, springbok. |
|
Hot Desert |
Mojave |
S.W. USA |
Bighorn sheep, coyote, desert tortoise, jack
rabbit, pupfish, sidewinder. |
|
Hot Desert |
Monte |
Argentina, South America |
Armadillo, cavy, jaguarundi, puma, tinamou,
tuco-tuco. |
|
Hot Desert |
Sahara |
North Africa |
Addax antelope, barn owls, cape hare, dama
deer, desert hedgehog, dorcas gazelle, fan-tailed raven, fennec
fox, gerbil, horned viper, jackal, jerboa, mouse, Nubian bustard,
ostrich, sand fox, shrew, slender mongoose, spiny-tailed lizard,
spotted hyena. |
|
Hot Desert |
Sonoran |
S.W. USA, Mexico |
Barn owl, big free-tailed bat, black widow
spider, bobcat, chuckwallas, coati, collared peccary, desert
iguana, desert tortoise, dragonfly, elf owl, gila monster, kangaroo
rat, pack rat, Mexican grey wolf, mule deer, pupfish, rattlesnake,
red-tailed hawk, roadrunner, scorpion, sidewinder, tarantula,
turkey vulture, wild burros. |
|
Hot Desert |
Thar |
Indian, Pakistan |
Dromedary, great Indian bustard, Indian spiny-tailed
lizard, jackal, sandgrouse. |
|
Coastal Desert |
Atacama |
Peru, Chile |
Llama, Peruvian fox, rodents. |
|
Cold and Hot Desert |
Gobi |
China, Mongolia |
Bactrian camel, beetles, blue hill pigeon,
desert wheatear, gazelle, gecko, Mongolian gerbil, jerboa, Gobi
bear, jerboa, lizards, onager, Pallas cat, Pallas sandgrouse,
Przewalski horse, short-toed larks, snow leopard, wild mountain
sheep, wolf. |
|
Cold and Hot Desert |
Iranian |
Iran, Afghanistan and Pakistan |
Monitor lizard, onager, oryx, scorpion. |
|
Cold and Hot Desert |
Namib |
S. W. Africa |
Fringe-toed lizard, golden mole, jackal, sidewinder,
viper, web-footed gecko. |
|
Cold and Hot Desert |
Takla Makan |
W. China |
Bactrian camel, jerboa, long-eared hedgehog,
gazelle. |
|
Cold Desert |
Patagonian |
Argentina, South America |
Guanaco, lesser rhea, mara, pygmy armadillo,
tuco-tuco, Patagonian weasel, foxes, puma, hawks, eagles. |
|
Cold Desert |
Turkestan |
Middle East |
Asian tortoise, gazelle, gerbil, saiga antelope. |
|
Cold Desert |
Antarctic Desert |
Antarctica |
Brown skua, penguins, mites, springtails,
worms. |
|
Semi-arid Desert |
Great Basin |
USA |
Bighorn sheep, jack rabbit, pocket mouse,
pronghorn antelope, sage thrasher. |
Travelling by
vehicle
Terrain, topography and climate that deserts encompass can vary greatly.
Gravel plains, sand dunes, sand sheets, low rounded hills, harsh rocky
landscapes, mountains, stony plains, boulder-strewn outwash fans as
well as endless nondescript vistas of tough grass tussocks all offer
different obstacles and challenges to travel by vehicle.
Problems for vehicles
Surface roughness, surface unevenness and surface strength will be
the main problems for vehicles. Stones and rocks, often with sharp
edges or large rounded shapes, will demand careful, sympathetic driving
and tyres inflated to the maximum. The unevenness of tracks – undulations
or sudden potholes or, worst of all, the widely encountered transverse
corrugations – will call for sensitive control of speed and usually
an “on–off tracks” tyre pressure tied to a moderate upper speed limit.
Typically this might be 1.8 bar and 64 km/h (40 mph) for a light 4
X 4 such as a Land Rover Defender 90.
Corrugations in the sand will demand a “harmonic speed” (probably
40 - 56 km/h (25 - 35 mph, which reduces the apparent effect of these
features, but they will still be giving the suspension a pounding
and at the same time make braking and steering far less effective
than on normal desert tracks.
Reduced surface strength presents as soft sand on dunes, in wadis,
on cut-up tracks, or unpredictable patches on sand plains. Here tyre
pressures may well have to be reduced to 1.5 bar or even less to enlarge
the tyre footprint and benefit flotation, but must be accompanied
by speed reduction to 24 - 32 km/h 15 - 20 mph) – less if extreme
deflation down to 1 bar is used. Reinflation must follow as soon as
possible after the bad patches are covered. Failure to do so will
cause tyre overheating with delamination, and will destroy covers;
remember that this could be all four at once. Check the onroad tracks
(64 km/h (40 mph) maximum) and emergency soft (24 km/h (15 mph) maximum)
pressures for the tyres on your vehicle.
If you are taking a vehicle into the desert there is a critical
rule, which is payload, versus range and time, versus water.
The payload of the vehicle is its weight plus total cargo. The range
of the vehicle is the amount of fuel needed to make the journey when
fully laden plus 20%. Time is the estimated journey time, plus a 20%
contingency figure and water is estimated at 3.8 litres (1 US gallon)
of water per person per day. In fuel and water alone, you are carrying
a lot of extra weight and this will reduce the range of the vehicle.
If you use air-conditioning, this will dramatically increase fuel
consumption. Do not rely on the manufacturer's data, for all these
values, always make a few practice runs and learn how your vehicle
can perform. Critical rule number two is never travel with
just one vehicle, a convoy of two is the minimum, especially if you
intend to drive off the desert highways. Vehicle recovery charges
in remote desert locations can cost thousands of dollars and the cost
ramps up if you need rescue from a remote, off road location.
The vehicle:

No standard production vehicle is correctly equipped for travel in
the desert. The basic vehicle has to have four wheel drive and a gearbox
equipped with low ratio gears. Moving parts on the vehicle need protection
from dust and sand. The vehicle needs a special air filter. An open
topped vehicle is not suitable.
A long wheelbase Land Rover or Toyota Landcruiser are examples of
vehicles that can be more easily modified for desert terrain than
most of their rivals. For one thing, spare parts for these vehicles
are often obtainable in obscure parts of the world because the locals
use them. If you take a Humvee, for example, parts may be a problem
unless there is an American military base nearby. If you intend to
make a desert trip (perhaps the adventure of a lifetime), you would
be best served by having a specialist company modify your vehicle,
but as a minimum you need to consider the following:
Sand and dust protection:
Carburettors, fuel inlets, air and oil filters need to be specially
adapted to cope with sand and dust in the desert. All air intakes
need dust filters fitted over them. All exposed bearing must be protected
against sand entering them.
Suspension and bearings:
Suspension needs to be "ruggedized" to cope with the extreme terrain.
Sump protection:
You must have a strong plate to protect the oil sump and the bottom
of your vehicle against scraping by rocks.
Batteries:
You need to have a performance battery like the NATO-block battery.
These dual-purpose, heavy-duty gel batteries can cope with deep current
cycles as well as instant high currents. Such batteries are rated
between 125 and 200Ah and you will never be stranded without enough
power to start the vehicle. Unfortunately, most suppliers retailing
batteries are hopeless when it comes to special applications like
these, so you need to know what you want. Sonnenschein Dryfit batteries
are a good choice (available through Exide). If you use an electric
winch, you need one of these batteries.
Winches:
Definitely unsuitable are cheap winches in the price region of £200-300.
If you decide to fit a winch, the straight line pull should be around
double the laden weight of your vehicle or greater. Remember to buy
some ground anchors.
Tyres:
Radial tyres are always better than cross-ply tyres in desert terrain.
Choose tyres for the sturdiness of their sidewalls and their ability
to run at very low pressures for
extended periods; a good example is the Michelin XS (photo right)
or XZL. If you want to use your tyres back home as well, a good compromise
would be BFGoodrich AT or MT tyres, depending on your preference.
Do not choose an overly aggressive tyre with tread patterns like the
Goodyear Cargo G 90 tyre as this will dig into sand rather than pass
over it. Tubeless tyres are better than tyres with inner tubes
as they cope better with low pressures. The best advice for desert
driving is to fit the largest and widest tyres your vehicle can take
without making any major modifications. Carry a minimum of two full-sized
spare wheels or two spare tyres (if you have the skill to fit them)
and a puncture repair kit. An electrical air tyre inflater/compressor
is a vital piece of kit because you will have to reduce tyre pressure
to travel over softer sand (gives a larger surface area of tread)
and re-inflate the tyres to full working pressure when on more compact
surfaces.
Recovery equipment:
For ropes and shackles, use only high quality, rated material. Inferior
quality recovery equipment can be highly dangerous and cause serious
injury. Rated shackles have a blue or green painted pin and should
have a strength of at least 6 tons (6.09 tonnes), which also goes
for ropes. A recovery rope for the desert should be around 10 metres
(33 feet) long. You might prefer the more fancy Kinetic ropes, but
bear in mind that you only get about 30 to 40 kinetic pulls out of
one before it
degrades
to an ordinary rope. Use a heavy-duty shovel with a wide, (ideally)
pointed blade. Army surplus stores have "pioneer" shovels that are
strong and durable. A lightweight option is made by Fiskars, Scandinavia.
A good tip is to carry a shovel for every member of the expedition;
they are also useful for digging latrines.
Sand plates (sand ladders or Waffles):
(See above photo showing sand plates carried on the Land Rover's roof
rack.) Alloy sand plates are light but bend easily. Military sand
plates made of steel are cheap but heavy. Kevlar sand plates are light,
durable but very expensive. 4Technique's sand ladders are made from
an alloy-steel compound; they weigh around 3 kilos (6.6 pounds) each,
are solid and can also double up as a ladder for your roof rack. (Distributed
in Europe by Taubenreuther.)
Roof racks:
roof racks free up valuable space inside the vehicle. Ideally, choose
a model that supports the weight over the full length of the gutter
and travels the full length of the vehicle. Fit chequer plates to
the wing and the bonnet so you can climb onto the roof rack, or fit
a ladder to the rear of your vehicle. Cover the loaded roof rack with
a white tarpaulin (white reflects more heat) to keep sand down, but
do not store anything on the roof rack that can be damaged by heat,
it will get hot up there. You can fit up the roof rack so you can
sleep on top of the vehicle at night. Do not load your roof rack up
so much the vehicle becomes top heavy.
Consider also having a tropical roof fitted to your vehicle. This
is a second roof mounted on top of the vehicle's roof with an air
gap between the two. This will lower the temperature inside the vehicle.
If
If you don't fit a tropical roof, paint the outside of the vehicle's
roof white and line inside with insulation.
Water and Fuel Containers:
Fuel - military type "jerrycans" are most suitable for
fuel.
Make sure the rubber seal is in perfect condition if buying second-hand
cans and take a spare seal or two if in doubt. When you purchase jerrycans,
check the manufacturers stamp and batch number on the side or base
of the can - cheap imports are around that only last a couple of days
under severe conditions. For pouring fuel or water you will need a
nozzle - always take one with a ventilation pipe otherwise it takes
as long as ten minutes to empty a 20 litre (5.3 US gallons) can.
Water:
The most reliable water containers are Army-type containers; they
are strong but lack a tap for convenient operation, although, many
models of electric or hand pumps are available. Avoid second-hand
containers, as you do not know what they have been filled with previously.
Consider fitting a water tank into the vehicle, it keeps the water
cooler, you can't lose it and it is faster to fill. Land Rover makes
a 50-litre (13 US gallons) stainless steel water tank that fits in
the vehicle's foot well. Carry a portable water pump, filtration system
and water sterilizing equipment with you so you can fill up from any
potentially potable water you find along the way.
Other kit:
1. Full tool kit, vehicle
maintenance handbook, supplementary tools (such as clamps, files,
wire, etc.), the spare parts' kit supplied by the car manufacturer
and jumper leads.
2. Spare tyre/s, battery driven tyre pump, tyre levers, tyre repair
kit, hydraulic jack, jack handle extension and a large base plate
for jack.
3. Spare fuel can/s, spare water container/s and cool bags.
For those going off the black top roads other items to include
are:
4. Foot tyre pump, heavy-duty hydraulic or air jack, power winch,
sand plates, safety rockets, comprehensive first aid kit and a radio-telephone
where permitted. Renting a satellite phone is a good investment,
you can almost always get a connection and there is the added bonus
that the satellite phone provider can get an accurate fix on your
location.
5. Emergency rations kit/s, matches and cooking stove.
6. Maps, compasses, latest road information, long-term weather forecast
and guides to navigation by the sun and stars.
Further advice:

Do not speed across open, flat desert in case the surface changes
without warning and your vehicle beds deeply into soft sand or a gully;
at speed you will create a sandstorm that blinds others travelling
behind you in your convoy. Well maintained corrugated road surfaces
can be driven at modest pace but rocky surfaces should be treated
with great care to prevent heavy wear on tyres. Sand seas are a challenge
for drivers and require a cautious approach; ensure that your navigation
lines are clear so that weaving between dunes does not cause disorientation.
Especially in windy conditions, it is possible to lose one's line
of sight, leaving crews with little knowledge of where they are. If
cresting dunes from dip slope to scarp, one needs to take great care
that the vehicle does not either bog down or overturn. Keep off salt
flats after rain and floods, especially in the winter and spring,
when water tables can rise and make the going hazardous in soft mud.
Beware of approaching traffic even when on marked and maintained tracks.
If driving in a sandstorm, have all lights on, better still, get off
the road and wait for the visibility to improve.
The desert is unforgiving to both man and vehicle. Make the schedule
of your journey known in advance to friends or embassy/consulate officials
who will actively check on your arrival at stated points. Breakdowns
and multiple punctures are the most frequent problem. On the highway,
the likelihood is always that a passing motorist will give assistance
or a lift to the nearest control post or village. However, be aware
that there are instances of highway robbery, you may get a lift, end
up being dumped in the middle of nowhere and ultimately find your
vehicle or possessions have vanished. For this reason, it is best
for someone to stay with an abandoned vehicle and for only one person
to go with the person assisting you.
Off road, breakdowns, punctures and bogging down in soft sand are
the main difficulties. If you have left your travel program at your
last stop, you will already have a fall-back position in case of severe
problems. If you cannot make a repair, or free a stuck vehicle, remain
with your vehicle in all circumstances. Unless you can clearly see
a settlement (not a mirage), it is safer to stay where you are with
water, food and shelter. The second vehicle can be used to search
for help, but only after defining the precise location of the stuck
vehicle; GPS is excellent for this. If your party gets lost, stop
up to conserve fuel while you attempt to get a bearing on either the
topography or the planets/stars and work out a traverse to bring you
back to a known line, such as, a highway, mountain ridge or coastline.
If that fails, take up as prominent a position as possible to help
rescue aircraft spot you. Attempt to find a local source of
water by digging in the nearest wadi bed (Wash), collecting dew from
the air at night, etc. If you have fuel to spare it can be used with
great care both as a means of attracting attention and a way of boiling
untreated water. If you are in a real predicament, set light to one
of your spare tyres, this will send dense black smoke high in the
air and there is a good chance this will be spotted. If you get into
trouble in the desert, be patient, conserve energy and take the time
you need to think things through.
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